Are breadbaskets’ days numbered in R.I.?

Bread – it is a staple, “the staff of life.” It is the third essential ingredient to romance along with a jug of wine and “thou.” It is written that man does not live by it alone.
It has been such a customary offering at restaurants that those on both sides of the table rarely gave it a thought. But the breadbasket’s days may be numbered.
A restaurant-industry research firm – NPD Group – predicts that over the next 10 years, one of the foods whose consumption will decline the most is bread. The reasons? In addition to rising costs, there is an increasing awareness of the effects of filling up on complimentary bread on one’s appetite and for some, on one’s health.
But just as important to a number of chefs and restaurateurs is to not waste food. And served food that is unused must be discarded.
Carlo Slaughter just opened a new restaurant with his brother Gennaro in Garden City in Cranston called Bistro 22. In keeping with the current style of new eateries, this one has an intimate seating capacity. Every seat and every table has to be in line with the bottom line while still maintaining high standards of hospitality.
So Slaughter is walking a fine line, where a large-scale food giveaway such as a basket of bread on every table is concerned. And the costs add up. Industry analysis shows that only about 30 percent of diners partake of the free bread anyway. The leftovers must be thrown away.
“That bothers me more than anything, even beyond the cost,” Slaughter said. “It breaks my heart to throw away food.” He is thinking over his bread policy at both Bistro 22 and the other restaurant he co-owns, d. Carlo Trattoria.
That instinctive objection to wasting food is echoed by other chefs both locally and throughout the country. Many, if not most, chefs and restaurateurs are active in hunger-fighting organizations, food banks and kitchens.
Annika Stensson, senior manager of research communications at the National Restaurant Association, brought the issue of free bread down to pennies. “A typical restaurant’s profit margin is only pennies on the dollar, and food purchases account for about one-third of total sales,” she said in a statement. She echoed the waste aspect of the bread issue: “If bread is frequently left on tables by guests, only offering it upon request or for a fee can be a way to reduce food waste while streamlining cost management.” Actually, there was discontent over the breadbasket prior to the recession. Back in April 2008, I wrote about baker Arnie Buono and his bread battle and declining sales due to skyrocketing costs. Back then it was a threefold increase in the price of flour due to increased demand because of a worldwide shortage of wheat.
The rising 2008 bread price was also tied in with the soaring cost of fuel – sound familiar? – and because of the increased use of ethanol in fuel. “Ethanol is made from corn, which is used to feed chickens,” said Buono. “As the price of corn goes up, it costs more to feed them which drives up the cost of eggs.”
Higher overhead costs – due to drought and high fuel prices – and waste are not the only things affecting the breadbasket. The current awareness of gluten-intolerance issues and celiac disease are also major considerations for chefs, restaurateurs and bakers alike. Gluten-free products are a booming industry. Many restaurants offer gluten-free menus and just about all require servers to check with their guests to be sure there are no issues of food allergies or intolerance as a matter of course at the beginning of the meal. Turning down the offer of bread is becoming more commonplace. But many patrons do not say no to bread until it is delivered to the table and some don’t even then.
Bread before the meal has not entirely disappeared from the table at restaurants. In fact, most still offer it.
The Spiced Pear at the Chanler in Newport stated no change in its bread policy, with guests given a selection of artisan breads and rolls from which to choose. Some chefs and restaurateurs are searching for alternatives to the routine bread assortment. Some are greeting their patrons with a cheese plate. Others are serving crudités of vegetables or even pickles. But patrons – even the ones passing on the basket – report on review websites that there is no substitute for satisfying, fresh-baked bread. The first chef who hits on a crowd-pleasing substitute will truly have come up with the greatest thing since … sliced bread. •


Bruce Newbury’s “Dining Out” food and wine talk radio show is heard on WADK-AM 1540, WHJJ-AM 920, online and through mobile applications. He can be reached by email at bruce@brucenewbury.com.

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