Bigger traditionally better in R.I. dining

There is a popular saying that goes, “Go big or go home.” It applies to a select number of restaurants in Rhode Island that are proven successes and are at the top of any list of dining traditions in the state. They may even be described as legends. They are large-capacity facilities that operate primarily as restaurants. This distinction is important to note and to separate these giants from banquet halls and hotel ballrooms. Such facilities may hold more patrons but are function venues with catering menus that open, cook and serve for events only. This is a clear difference from an eatery that is open to the public during regular hours, offering a varied menu to its patrons for its entire business day and night.
This phenomenon of big restaurants also appears to fly in the face of the current trend on Restaurant Row, that of small restaurants seating less than 50 and in some cases as few as 12 patrons.
These newer micro-restaurants such as birch, Cook and Brown Public House and Fratelli’s BG&B are culinary creators that offer a focused tasting experience built around a single concept. Some nights at restaurants such as these there may a single prix-fixe menu available.
Rhode Island’s dining legacy is the landmark restaurant where life’s occasions have been celebrated and lives commemorated. Before the restaurant boom, dining out was for the most part confined to special events, from birthdays, anniversaries and memorial gatherings, to team and school award banquets. In most cities of any size there were one or two, or a few, big restaurants that sat hundreds of patrons.
The eatery may have a private room but for the most part its size was to accommodate the masses who queued up on Saturday nights. As the culinary entertainment industry has matured and tastes have changed, some of these giants have closed their doors. Most recently, the behemoth Hilltop Steak House north of Boston served its last patrons and turned off the grills for good. Reasons given for its decline included changing tastes and a lack of large family groups to fill the big dining rooms.
However, here in our dining-destination state, three landmarks continue to thrive. Twin Oaks, Wright’s Farm Restaurant and the revived Evelyn’s are still packing them in. And not very far over the state line, the Venus di Milo and White’s of Westport are perennial success stories in Massachusetts.
Twin Oaks seats more than 700 patrons, according to a spokesperson for the restaurant in Cranston who referred me to the proprietor, Susan deAngelis. Founded in 1933, Twin Oaks – always referred to by both names, seldom if ever nicknamed “The Oaks” or some other handle. Regulars tend to morph the pronunciation of the name into a single word – “twinOaks” – accent on the second syllable. Famed for substantial portions of Italian food, particularly veal, expertly made, high-octane cocktails and signature pasta sauce also sold at retail, Twin Oaks has withstood the test of time.
Its online reviews respect the restaurant’s legacy. One recent account described Twin Oaks as “without doubt, the greatest restaurant in Little Rhody.” The tabulation of key phrases of diners’ descriptions included references to the “tradition” or “Rhode Island institution” in at least 10 percent of reviews.
Wright’s Farm Restaurant, in Burrillville, is a landmark in every sense. As a recent patron posted online, “Anyone who has been here, goes here for a reason. You don’t just ‘stop in’ to Wright’s Chicken Farm.” Always at or near the top of the list of the largest restaurants in the state with seating for more than 1,600, Wright’s Farm – again, always referred to by both names – is just as well-known for its menu as for its size. Seating is at banquet-style tables, service is family-style and the platters and bowls keep on coming. A dressed salad, rolls, crisp French fries that garner the most thumbs-up online reviews, and broiled, tender chicken.
The online reviews for Wright’s Farm are positive. One observer tried to make a connection between the comfort-food menu and the gift shop, as though brilliant food and souvenir shopping are mutually exclusive.
I found it interesting that almost no one made a connection between these restaurants’ size and what was served either in quality or creativity. Also, individuals who identified themselves posted reviews of more than one of the giant eateries on a popular online review website. This was notable considering the vast universe of cyberspace touted by such Web destinations.
There are other successful large-scale eateries in our state, notably Nordic Lodge in Charlestown and the recently reopened Evelyn’s, in West Warwick, formerly known as Evelyn’s Villa and Villa di Georgio, which was sold out for Thanksgiving.
We love our food and our dining traditions in Rhode Island. There is plenty of room for both in our small state. •


Bruce Newbury’s “Dining Out” food and wine talk radio show is heard on WADK-AM 1540, WHJJ-AM 920, online and through mobile applications. He can be reached by email at bruce@brucenewbury.com.

No posts to display