Boom may be over but beef still on menu locally

The Capital Grille restaurant in Providence will relocate next year from its current location in Union Station to the space in the GTECH Center currently occupied by Ruth’s Chris Steak House. Managers at Ruth’s Chris have referred inquiries about whether a new location might be in the offing or if the company will continue to operate in the city to corporate headquarters in Florida.
The question being asked on restaurant row is, “is the steakhouse boom over?”
Looking at some of the recently opened eateries around town and statewide, the question is a reasonable one. The newest restaurants run the gamut from breakfast to sushi to Italian, BBQ and chicken to Central American.
But there has been only one new restaurant with “steakhouse” as part of its name opening its doors this year, Pavilion Steakhouse and Banquets, in Hopkinton, which technically is not a new place but underwent a recent relaunch.
What happened to the steakhouse stampede? That was the title of a PBN column I wrote back in late 2006 (“Steakhouse stampede,” PBN, Dec. 18, 2006) when Ruth’s Chris, Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar, Shula’s 347 Grill and Providence Prime all opened their doors seemingly at the same time. The manager at the time said, “We expect that in the next few years there will be half a dozen more steakhouses coming to town.”
To show how popular the concept was, at the time plans were going ahead for two: Shula’s 347 was to open later in the year in the former Holiday Inn (soon to be renamed The Providence Hilton, which it is known as today) and Fleming’s Steakhouse and Wine Bar had plans to open in the Westin (now the Omni) in 2007.
I noted at the time that chef John Elkhay was getting in the game as “his XO recently underwent a steak makeover, adding ‘Steakhouse’ to its name and revamping its menu.” (The restaurant underwent a complete change in name and concept only to change back to XO Cafe in 2011.) In addition, a landmark Italian spot on the Providence-North Providence line morphed into a Neapolitan version of a Brazilian rodizio, where waiters roamed the dining room with large cuts of roasted beef as well as lamb and pork and sliced portions at the table for eager diners.
Another Brazilian steakhouse enjoyed a brief tenure in East Providence. Both have long since closed their doors.
While Flemings and Shulas, as well as Ten Prime Steak and Sushi, continue to attract a nightly crowd of carnivores, Providence Prime has re-imagined itself as a gastro-pub complement to its sibling Providence Oyster Bar. Some industry observers see this as part of a larger trend away from formal fine dining. Gradually in the post-recession years as the steakhouse boom with its dark-wood-accented dining rooms and high-octane cocktails became less fashionable, new venues serving creative food came online. And these were not only restaurants with walls, bars or addresses. Food trucks became the rage, setting up shop anywhere and everywhere – where allowed by municipal ordinance – and terms such as “fine casual” began to find their way into industry jargon. One research company that tracks customer demand recently reported on a new category of restaurant – “fast fine.”
But does this change of style mean we are ordering steak less often? Not necessarily. We may be choosing or having chosen for us different cuts, such as hanger steak, short ribs or brisket.
We who dine out often are rediscovering the burger. From boutique spots referred to in the trade as “better burger” places such as Harry’s Bar and Burger, now preparing to open its second location, this one on Federal Hill – to the menu served to President Obama during his end-of-summer visit to Newport, including a “slider” (mini-burger) and short-rib mini tacos from Blackbird Farm in Smithfield, as well as prime sirloin.
Hemenway’s Seafood Grill and Oyster Bar in Providence will honor locally grown ingredients when it hosts a special Local Harvest Dinner to benefit Save The Bay on Sept. 18 at 6 p.m. The four-course dinner and cocktail reception, priced at $79 per person, will feature grass-fed braised beef steak paired with cabernet franc from Carolyn’s Sakonnet Vineyards, as well as seafood and vegetable dishes utilizing ingredients from local farmers, fishmongers, purveyors and artisans.
Will the newly reopened Culinary Arts Museum at Johnson & Wales University in Providence someday have an exhibit of retired steakhouses? Perhaps, although the fashion of restaurants tends to be pendulum-like. Today it is stylish to dine casually, in a “farm-to-table” setting. Tomorrow, dressing up for dinner at an old-school steakhouse may be back in vogue, especially if the economy ever starts booming again. But rest assured, steaks and beef in general are still “what’s for dinner.” •


Bruce Newbury’s “Dining Out” talk radio show airs on WHJJ-AM (920), WADK-AM (1540) and online and through mobile applications. He can be reached via email at bruce@brucenewbury.com.

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