Kids are eating all right

Kids’ menus have remained largely unchanged, even as our food knowledge and sophistication have evolved in the post-boom, post-culinary, post-celebrity-chef era. This has resulted in some hand-wringing in some halls of academia.

A study reported on recently out of the Harvard University School of Public Health suggested that a public health initiative to raise awareness of better nutrition practices somehow missed the kids’ menu at most restaurants. The study laments the fact that first of all, the choices on kids’ menus have not changed very much. That is not to say that there were no healthier options being offered – the study acknowledges there were – but the evidence shows that there was little or no “change in behavior” among the kids.

That is, they keep ordering the same things kids always order. Local restaurateurs say there is nothing new here. Bill Pinelli, longtime Rhode Island restaurant owner and operator of the popular B. Pinelli’s in East Providence, said with a grandfatherly smile, “The kids want the chicken fingers and fries!” But unlike those in the towers of higher learning, Pinelli knows his guests.

What is not being told in the narrative from Harvard is that the kids are not ordering from the kids’ menu, period. “Our families who dine with us order from our regular menu,” he confided. “The kids want to eat what everyone else eats.” So they order pasta, salads, vegetarian or vegan options, sandwiches. Sometimes they’ll finish an adult portion, more often than not there are leftovers to be wrapped to take home. B. Pinelli’s has found success with a family feeding option on Sundays called “Mangia,” with unlimited pasta, chicken and other favorites.

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On campus, the researchers insist that more be done to raise awareness and to change behavior to bring about the social change that those who undertake such research projects, theses and papers insist be brought about.

The tone of such well-intentioned works can be one that gives the impression that there should not be the enjoyment of dining out – something that health practitioners are increasingly pointing to as an important part of overall good health. And some national restaurant chains, led by Panera Bread, have spent much time, effort and resources to change ingredients so that all menu items are as healthy as can be.

Locally, the restaurateurs who see kids as a significant part of their customer base are more conscious than ever of what might be asked of them by parents. In addition to the nutritional and ingredient components, the issue of food sensitivity and allergies comes up daily and almost hourly.

Just ask proprietors such as Ted Karousos, of the Blue Plate Diner in Middletown, who devotes hours of staff training to menu-item ingredient explanation. Lou Perella of Perella’s in Warren was an early gluten-free practitioner.

The times are changing, but feeding the family is as important as ever. As families rely increasingly on restaurants at mealtime, they are finding local restaurateurs are ready to welcome them. •

Bruce Newbury’s Dining Out radio talk show is heard Saturdays at 11 a.m. on 1540 AM WADK and through the TuneIn mobile app. Email Bruce at Bruce@brucenewbury.com.

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