Oberlin makes Bon Appétit Hot 10 list

OBERLIN, OPERATED by Benjamin Sukle, made it onto Bon Appétit's annual Hot 10 list, coming in seventh. / COURTESY BON APPETIT/ELIZABETH CECIL
OBERLIN, OPERATED by Benjamin Sukle, made it onto Bon Appétit's annual Hot 10 list, coming in seventh. / COURTESY BON APPETIT/ELIZABETH CECIL

PROVIDENCE – Oberlin is one of the top 10 best new restaurants in the country.
Oberlin, which opened earlier this year on Union Street, was picked from 50 nominees by Bon Appétit’s deputy editor Andrew Knowlton and senior editor Julia Kramer for the magazine’s annual Hot 10 list; they ate at more than 400 restaurants around the U.S. to conduct their search.
They describe Oberlin, which came in seventh, as “authentic Italian-American cooking just like your rule-breaking, bycatch-loving, sake-swigging Nonna used to make.” Oberlin is the second restaurant for Benjamin Sukle, who also operates the fine dining restaurant Birch in the city.
Knowlton said about Sukle: “Here was a chef cooking with his gut, in a place I could come back to night after night.” Knowlton raves about the crudo, the sake and the “pillowy gnocci with littlenecks in a chive-flecked broth.”
“The pici with pork ragù would make any nonna seethe with envy. At Oberlin, Italian-American cooking gets reinvented. As for me, there’s one more thing I know about the Ocean State: I’ll be back soon,” he wrote.
Atlanta’s Staplehouse, a nonprofit restaurant, took the top spot on the list. Second was Bad Saint in Washington, followed by Lord Stanley in San Francisco, Morcilla in Pittsburgh, and Baroo in Los Angeles. South Philly Barbacoa in Philadelphia was sixth, and Wildair in New York City, eighth. Buxton Hall in Asheville, N.C., and N7 in New Orleans rounded out the list.
The new restaurants are profiled in Bon Appétit’s September issue.
“We had more real contenders this year than ever before,” Knowlton said.

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