With summer come oysters and farm goods

Three stories about three chefs for a summer’s day:
Chef Perry Raso of Matunuck Oyster Bar has been a busy man. The bar and its adjacent oyster farm have been serving up bushels of Raso’s namesake seafood.
Some have said that there are enough oysters under the water in places such as Potter’s Pond and Ninigret Pond to quite possibly feed everyone in New England. It appears Raso may put that old saw to the test, given that his sweet harvest is seemingly everywhere this second half of the season. Not only is his restaurant doing record business, but he is finding new venues to treat local foodies to his undersea delights.
At the end of July, the mollusks were the guests of honor at an elegant art exhibit opening and fundraiser in Jamestown. And in September, Matunuck Oyster Farm oysters will be on the menu at the Big E fair in West Springfield, Mass., which runs from Sept. 12-28.
Another kind of harvest is taking place at a few farms in the area as the harvest begins to come in at long last. The new executive chef at Restaurant Cav is taking to the fields. Chef David Ferda joined the eclectic Providence bistro at the beginning of the summer, having wrapped up a stint at Parkside Rotisserie. He has introduced some new items to Cav’s guests while learning the menu. Now he is reaching out to local farmers.
Ferda has been developing relationships with a few farmers as well as utilizing the services of Farm Fresh Rhode Island, the buying service that many of the state’s chefs use. Ferda is planning visits to farms such as Confreda Farms in Cranston and D’Allesandro Farm in Warren.
On the other side of the equation, a Middletown farmer is looking for new markets for his produce. Jim Garman grows for Malt restaurant in Newport, but the chef there can’t take in any more. Farmer Garman is in search of an additional outlet for his heirloom vegetables grown with organic methods. This next is more along the lines of “dining in.” With the recent announcement that Eastside Marketplace will be acquired by and become a new division of the parent company of Stop & Shop Ahold USA, many questions have been raised.
As was first reported on July 22 in the online edition of PBN, Eastside Marketplace will retain its identity, store management, including General Manager Brian Pacheco, and its staff, including its executive chef. Said Scott B. Laurans, president and CEO of ESM Inc., “[Ahold] will learn from us, and we will learn from them.”
Laurans will continue to be associated with the new Eastside as a consultant. The Laurans family has owned and operated Eastside Marketplace for 32 years.
The family business was known as Roger Williams Foods, which operated IGA stores in Rhode Island as well as wholesaling to grocers throughout New England. Roger Williams Foods was acquired by Supervalu, which itself is one of the largest grocery wholesalers as well as retailers in the nation.
This dynamic of one of the world’s largest grocery companies (Ahold is a Dutch concern) embarking on a development project to bring high-quality food to more people by using a local Providence grocer as a laboratory is another testament of how well the local food community is respected, reinforcing our reputation as a true culinary destination. •


Bruce Newbury’s “Dining Out” food and wine talk radio show is heard on WADK-AM 1540, WHJJ-AM 920, online and through mobile applications. He can be reached by email at bruce@brucenewbury.com.

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